Search for Stopovers
1. Just use the 'GEOLOCATE' button to centre the search around where you are now. Or type the location (Just change 'Valencia' to wherever you want) in the right-hand box to centre it where you want.
2. Select the radius of your search (default is 50 kms)
The results quickly appear as markers on a map - zoom in and out as you wish. There's a scrollable list below it starting with the nearest first.
3. To see full details of the stopover just click the map marker then the popup to get the stopover information. Or click the one you want from the list.
4. You can also click on 'ROUTE' which will open Google Maps. If you are on a pc there's also an option on that Google Map page to send directions to your phone.
How to's
Member Techno100's guide to DIY solar panel fitting on a motorhome.
PART ONE make your own brackets etc
For this task you'll need:
- Some aluminium angle 60mm x 40mm x 3mm x 1 metre or equivalent
- Set square
- Hacksaw
- File
- Drill
- Tape measure
- Pencil
- Rivet gun
- 4mm rivets
- 4mm hss drill bit
- 5mm tap
- 5mm set screws
This is the third set of brackets I've made so far. I've used 60mmx40mmx3mm angle as I came by it handy like 
A metre length of this stuff or similar can usually be bought for under a tenner, Ebay is good for this but plus P&P.
Closest I've found is 2.5"x1.5"x1/8" x1M for about £14 delivered.
Previously I've fitted 60 watt and 80 watt panels which require 4 brackets each and so only 1 set screw needed for each one. In this instance I've made brackets for 2 x 30 watt panels that will only require 1 bracket at each end and so I've fitted 2 set screws to keep them level. These are 5mm and I used a 4mm hss drill bit followed by a 5mm tap both driven through using a battery drill. You can use anything similar to achieve this or just a spacer.
Sikaflex 512 adhesive requires a MINIMUM thickness of 2mm and the set screws guarantee this will be acheived. I use the thickness of the brackets 3mm as in picture 3 to gauge this.
These particular brackets are 200mm long and the panel ends (to be illustrated next) are 445 mm wide.
Dunlop Air Suspension, fitting made easy guide
Member Techno100 has produced the following information about self fitting Dunlop Air Suspension:
For this job you will need:
- Some additional ground clearance (Milenco Quattros ideal)
- A long handled torque wrench
- Hammerite Waxoyl to coat all metal parts during assembly
- A tape measure for LSV (load sensing valve)
- 1/2" drive sockets 13,17,22mm
- Hammer, cold chisel, sidecutters, stanley knife, battery drill, 8mm HSS bit
Begin with the rod measurement at the LSV as this may alter with the suspension upgrade and need to be adjusted later, BEFORE driving.
CLEANING OF WATER TANKS AND CONTAINERS FOR CARAVANS AND MOTORHOMES
by zappysblog.com
DRINKING WATER TANKS & CONTAINERS
Introduction
This article advises on cleaning and disinfection of drinking and grey (waste) water vessels housed within Motorhome’s and containers commonly used in caravanning and camping.
Thank you to 'freespirit' from the 'FiatForum' for these detailed instructions on the DIY replacement of the fuel filter on a 2.8 JTD Ducato engine. Our usual disclaimers apply.
HOW TO CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER on a 2.8JTD
1. First make sure the ignition is turned off
2. Remove the air filter housing top.
3. Remove the air filter element itself from the housing - this can be a tight squeeze past the rear of the engine bay opening.
Sincere thanks to 'freespirit' from the 'FiatForum' for this superbly detailed guide on the DIY replacement of the cam belt on a 2.8 JTD Ducato engine. Usual disclaimers apply but if you feel confident enough to carry out the work then you will certainly find this article of huge interest.
Timing Belt Replacement Ducato 2.8 JTD 2003
Here is my step by step guide & what I encounted in changing the timing belt on a 2003 Ducato 2.8 JTD fitted with A/C.
As this is a JTD Common Rail Electronic Injection there is no injection pump timing to set (thank heaven). With the 2.8TD it would necessitate the upper timing cover & associated parts removal to enable enough room for timing of the Injection pump.
1. Disconnect the battery, remove front engine cover by undoing the 4 retaining clips.
2. Remove engine top cover , which necessitates the removal of part of the engine lift bracket retaining the 4 electrical cables for the injectors at the bottom right corner as the top cover has a projection under the wiring so cannot be removed until the part of the bracket is moved out of the way. I also removed the bracket bolted to the intake behind the cover as it has some wiring harness retaining clips & two studs with nothing attached to either which hinders easy removal otherwise.
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